I logged onto the Health App <https://www.apple.com/ios/whats-new/health/> this morning and all of my data was gone!! Or Was it? I found a post by " on a https://discussions.apple.com/thread/6568048 post that explaned how to solve the problem:
SOLUTION:
1. Press and
hold the power and him keys together.
2. Keep held until the phone has
gone black, the apple logo has appeared and disappeared again.
3. Then let
go of the buttons
4. and turn the phone on.
Wednesday, November 5, 2014
Apple iOS 8 Health App Stop Working
Tuesday, September 2, 2014
Apple Video Rentals Dissapoint
Imagine that you are getting ready to go camping for the weekend, with no cell or internet and planning a nice, relaxing vacation away from civilization. Just in case it rains, you decide to rent a move to watch on the iPad. The instructions say that you have 30 days to watch the movie, but that once you start, the movie will expire in 24 hours.
Fast forward to the campgrounds. The weather is awesome, so you get setled in, then after all of the setup, dinner and cleanup, you put the kids to sleep and get ready for bed. Your wife suggests watching the movie since you have some quiet time together, so at 9:30 pm, you start the movie... halfway into the movie, you find yourself dozing off, and after a completely exhausting day, you stop the movie and fall asleep.
The next day you have plans to hike along the waterfalls. By the time you get back to camp, it's almost 6 pm. You still haven't had dinner yet, so by the time you finish dinner and get the kids to sleep, it's almost 9 pm.
You turn on the ipad to finish the movie, but an error message impeeds your quiet time. The 24 hours have lapsed, and the movie, that you spent 1/2 hour downloading, has not disappeared from your iPad.
This situation in various settings has happened to me several times and I am going to seriously consider not using this Apple video service in the future. Apple can do better than this. They can clearly see that I did not watch the entire video. They should change this policy to enable viewers to watch their videos in full. If the 24 hour expires, they may not be able to watch the video a 2nd or 3rd time (that I understand), but at least give the viewer a week to watch the video that they rented in the first place!!!
Fast forward to the campgrounds. The weather is awesome, so you get setled in, then after all of the setup, dinner and cleanup, you put the kids to sleep and get ready for bed. Your wife suggests watching the movie since you have some quiet time together, so at 9:30 pm, you start the movie... halfway into the movie, you find yourself dozing off, and after a completely exhausting day, you stop the movie and fall asleep.
The next day you have plans to hike along the waterfalls. By the time you get back to camp, it's almost 6 pm. You still haven't had dinner yet, so by the time you finish dinner and get the kids to sleep, it's almost 9 pm.
You turn on the ipad to finish the movie, but an error message impeeds your quiet time. The 24 hours have lapsed, and the movie, that you spent 1/2 hour downloading, has not disappeared from your iPad.
This situation in various settings has happened to me several times and I am going to seriously consider not using this Apple video service in the future. Apple can do better than this. They can clearly see that I did not watch the entire video. They should change this policy to enable viewers to watch their videos in full. If the 24 hour expires, they may not be able to watch the video a 2nd or 3rd time (that I understand), but at least give the viewer a week to watch the video that they rented in the first place!!!
Labels:
Apple Movie,
Apple Video Rental,
Ripoff,
Scam,
Shaft
Sunday, July 27, 2014
iPhone batter saving tips
Helpful iPhone battery saving tips http://www.payetteforward.com/why-does-my-iphone-battery-die-so-fast-heres-the-real-fix/
Thursday, May 1, 2014
Dropcam Setup on Verizon FIOS
After researching dozens of products to be used as a baby cam, I purchased the Dropcam home video monitor primarily because the video stream could be accessed through computer, iphone, ipad and other mobile devices from anywhere in the world. Setup was also marketed aggressively as quick and easy and should be completed within 90 seconds, however, that was not the case.
Step 1: unboxed the unit, followed the instrucions (30 seconds)
Step 2: attempted to connect to Wi-Fi on my Verizon FIOS network (60 seconds)
Step 3: received the error "Wireless network not found. Please make sure the camera is within range of the router, MAC filtering is disabled, and the password is correct." (15 seconds)
Step 4: I searched the support pages and found that changing the wireless router (which requires logging INTO the router admin screen) channel to 1 or 11, but that did not work (5 minutes)
Step 5: called Dropcam support, but at 9:45 PM EST, they were closed (1 minute)
Step 6: woke up Saturday morning, 9:30 AM EST, spoke to Aaron at tech support, he helped me test my internet connection speed at speedtest.net, reboot the router, and move the camera to about 10 feet away from the router. None of those tests worked, so he indicated that I would have to speak to advanced tech support, but they are not available on the weekends. (20 minutes)
Step 7: went online to Verizon chat support and the agent typed "I regret to hear of the trouble that you are having. For Technical Support for your Home Monitoring and Control system, please call 1-800-VERIZON (1-800-837-4966) and follow the prompts for Home Monitoring and Control Technical Support" (3 minutes)
Step 8: that agent directed me to call 866-785-8153 which turns out to be closed on the weekends... (6 minutes)
Step 9: I finally spoke to a higher level tech at Dropcam who was actually pretty nice. He walked me through setting up a higher level of network security so that the camera would work.
1 Month later... Now that it's working, I actually love the product. I can access it from any device and/or multiple devices simultaneously. I would highly recommend this product after using it for about a month!
Step 1: unboxed the unit, followed the instrucions (30 seconds)
Step 2: attempted to connect to Wi-Fi on my Verizon FIOS network (60 seconds)
Step 3: received the error "Wireless network not found. Please make sure the camera is within range of the router, MAC filtering is disabled, and the password is correct." (15 seconds)
Step 4: I searched the support pages and found that changing the wireless router (which requires logging INTO the router admin screen) channel to 1 or 11, but that did not work (5 minutes)
Step 5: called Dropcam support, but at 9:45 PM EST, they were closed (1 minute)
Step 6: woke up Saturday morning, 9:30 AM EST, spoke to Aaron at tech support, he helped me test my internet connection speed at speedtest.net, reboot the router, and move the camera to about 10 feet away from the router. None of those tests worked, so he indicated that I would have to speak to advanced tech support, but they are not available on the weekends. (20 minutes)
Step 7: went online to Verizon chat support and the agent typed "I regret to hear of the trouble that you are having. For Technical Support for your Home Monitoring and Control system, please call 1-800-VERIZON (1-800-837-4966) and follow the prompts for Home Monitoring and Control Technical Support" (3 minutes)
Step 8: that agent directed me to call 866-785-8153 which turns out to be closed on the weekends... (6 minutes)
Step 9: I finally spoke to a higher level tech at Dropcam who was actually pretty nice. He walked me through setting up a higher level of network security so that the camera would work.
1 Month later... Now that it's working, I actually love the product. I can access it from any device and/or multiple devices simultaneously. I would highly recommend this product after using it for about a month!
Smart Mailbox in Apple Mail
I love the "unread"mailbox on my phone. It's a quick way to see exactly what has not been read yet, and hides all of the other emails that I have already read. I don't know why it took me 5 years to realize that I could do this on my desktop as well, so I opened my Mail application, went to the Mailbox menu and chose "New Smart Mailbox...".
Then I created a new rule and from the drop down menu, selected "Message is unread" and labeled the new mailbox "Unread". Now I have a new mailbox and can quickly see my unread messages at a glance. Kind of psyched, but I'm sure the excitement will wear off in a few hours...
Then I created a new rule and from the drop down menu, selected "Message is unread" and labeled the new mailbox "Unread". Now I have a new mailbox and can quickly see my unread messages at a glance. Kind of psyched, but I'm sure the excitement will wear off in a few hours...
Friday, February 14, 2014
Don't get ripped off at MODERN VAC & SEW
If you happen to be near the Roxborough/Andorra Section of Philadelphia, PA, avoid the MODERN VAC & SEW in the Andorra Shopping Center... Here was my experience:
I took my vacuum machine in for repair. They charged a $29.95 fee up front to look at the machine. A few days later, they called with a laundry list of items that needed repair, totally $106.00. The machine new was only $20 more than that, so I went to their store, picked up the machine and took it to the Oreck store in Ardmore, PA. They looked at the machine, flipped it upside down, replaced the belt, charged me $7.10 which included 2 additional replacement belts in case I wanted to do the repair on my own in the future, and sent me on my way. Keep in mind that I am using a Hoover Windtunnel vacuum cleaner, so hat's off to Oreck and avoid getting ripped off at MODERN VAC & SEW.
I took my vacuum machine in for repair. They charged a $29.95 fee up front to look at the machine. A few days later, they called with a laundry list of items that needed repair, totally $106.00. The machine new was only $20 more than that, so I went to their store, picked up the machine and took it to the Oreck store in Ardmore, PA. They looked at the machine, flipped it upside down, replaced the belt, charged me $7.10 which included 2 additional replacement belts in case I wanted to do the repair on my own in the future, and sent me on my way. Keep in mind that I am using a Hoover Windtunnel vacuum cleaner, so hat's off to Oreck and avoid getting ripped off at MODERN VAC & SEW.
RECOMMENDED:
My Oreck Store
myoreckstore.com/
16 Greenfield Ave, Ardmore, PA 19003 |
Monday, February 10, 2014
Is there one room in the house that is not getting warm? It may not be the HVAC and in fact may be solved by better insulation...
In my quest to better insulate a room in the house that never seems to get warm, I have finally made progress. The room is now approximate 4-6 degrees warmer, however, still remains about 2-3 degrees cooler than the rest of the house. Caveat: the room faces east, so it does receive direct sunlight in the AM. Prior to our upgrades, the room was always frigid. Here is what we did:
After doing a little investigation, we were SHOCKED to find out that the insulation that was underneath the bedroom was resting on the garage ceiling (per code), but there was a 3-4 inch GAP between the insulation and the sub-floor above it. This means that there was no real insulation on the floor. Cold air was circulating under the room. The room was essentially an ice box. We rented a blow pump from Lowes/Home Depot and shot about 8 units of insulation in between that small gap below the floor.
Before and after pictures of the insulation above the vaulted ceiling: notice the GAP at the peak. Heat was escaping through this area which lacked thorough insulation:
With the combination of the heavy curtain wall, and the insulation, the room is now much warmer and noticeable more comfortable.
- We purchased a laser temperature gun for about $19 (http://www.amazon.com/Nubee%C2%AE-Temperature-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B00CVHIJDK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1392060740&sr=8-8&keywords=laser+temperature+gun) FYI: this is a fantastic gift for all of you DIY'ers out there.
- We measured the exact temperature of all of the walls, ceiling and floor to establish a baseline.
- We met with an HVAC specialist who helped us rearrange the furniture in the room so that the heat coming off of the ventilation would be better disbursed throughout the room (and not blocked by any furniture). During that time, he put his hand over the vents and could clearly feel warm air coming through. He also put a tissue over the return while the HVAC was running and the suction was apparent in that the tissue sucked up immediately against the return. He told us our biggest problem was insulation.
- We noticed that the wall with the window was clearly the coldest and that tons of heat was escaping right there. We went to IKEA, purchased curtain liners along with clip on decorative curtains and installed them across the entire wall. It was almost immediately noticeable that we gained about 1-2 degrees of warmth. Just by blocking these windows and the wall, we were able to trap heat in the room.
- We hired a GC to come to the home to insulate. The strategy was two fold: a) make sure all of the existing insulation was well buttoned up and created an “envelope” that is required to trap the heat and b) use a blow pump to shoot insulation into the hard to reach areas.
After doing a little investigation, we were SHOCKED to find out that the insulation that was underneath the bedroom was resting on the garage ceiling (per code), but there was a 3-4 inch GAP between the insulation and the sub-floor above it. This means that there was no real insulation on the floor. Cold air was circulating under the room. The room was essentially an ice box. We rented a blow pump from Lowes/Home Depot and shot about 8 units of insulation in between that small gap below the floor.
Before and after pictures of the insulation above the vaulted ceiling: notice the GAP at the peak. Heat was escaping through this area which lacked thorough insulation:
With the combination of the heavy curtain wall, and the insulation, the room is now much warmer and noticeable more comfortable.
Sunday, February 2, 2014
How long does it take to change a lightbulb?
My wife's 2006 Hyundai Sonata headlamp bulb died, so instead of taking it to the mechanic, I figured I would save some money and replace it myself... Three hours and $46 later, the joke was on me! Here is what happened:
- Went to pep boys, asked the parts guy for the correct bulb part number... Went home ans started to remove the boots that hold in the headlight box housing. Two screws were easy and accessible, but the 3rd was tucked away about 8 inches deep. My 1/4" rachet set for home hobbies was not compatible. The 3/8 was too ss all and the 7/16 was too large.
- I went back to pep boys and talked to a new parts personal. She must have been no more tha 21, but knew more about car parts than the previous parts guy and showed me where to find a 10mm. This time, I brought my rachet with me, so I went to the parking lot, popped the hood, and quickly learned that the rachet and socket were both too small and made the first comedy of errors, and dropped the rachet down into a crevasse.
- Third trip into pep boys, found me helpful parts girl and she suggested I use a retractable magnet to extract my ratchet. I also bought an extended length 10mm socket, whet back out to the parking lot to fish out my ratchet, and in the process, inadvertently knocks the ratchet down even further into the abyss. I dropped to the concrete and was able to pull the rachet out of the bottom just by a small opening near the drivers side wheel base. Using the extended socket, I realized that my 1/4" ratchet handle was simply too small.
- Back to pep boys, my parts girl recommended a 3/8 ratchet upgrade since they are more durable and more commonly used, is I returned my two 1/4" sockets, and picked up and extended handle ratchet, along with and extended 10mm socket and a rice crispy treat. Upon returning to the parking lot, I quickly realized that this was the right fit, so decided to drive home and compete the project in the garage. Once I was home, I handily removed the entire light housing. From that point, I was able to remove the bulb. Once the bulb was out, I compared it to the build I had purchased, and guess what... It was the wrong bulb! At this point, I was fuming....
- Quick trip back to pep boys, and it turns out that the car is a 2006, not 2005, so that was clearly my fault... I purchased the correct bulbs, along with a giant 3 musketeers and went back home. Removing the bulb was easy, but reseating the new bulb was a huge pain. There was an awkward paperclip like part that needed to be secured to the base of the bulb so that it would stay in position... It was so annoying that I started laughing at myself because the paper clip kept detaching. My wife and I had to leave, and I was going to have to put down the project for now, but just beforehand, I learned that the extended ratchet was simply too long for the passenger side... So later that evening, we stopped at an auto zone about 5 minutes before 9 pm, and of course, the did not have the right part.
- Next morning, went back to pep boys for a 6th time... Purchase another 10mm socket, went home, replaced both bulbs, easily spent and hour fiddling with the paper clips, and finally completed the job.
Sunday, January 26, 2014
Carbon monoxide (CO) is a leading cause of accidental poisoning deaths in America
According to the CDC, Carbon monoxide (CO) is the leading cause of accidental poisoning deaths
in America, (nearly 500 deaths annually in the United States) yet many people don't know they are suffering from CO
poisoning until its too late. Since symptoms of CO poisoning are like
the flu, you might not even know you're in danger at first. CO monitors
can detect the CO you can't see, smell or taste in the air.
I was originally going to order a $20 unit that was ranked highly on Amazon: "The First Alert CO600", but then I checked with Consumer Reports and found that there is a big difference in CO detectors... The quality of detection increased drammatically at around $50, so I'm probably going to puchase: " First Alert OneLInk SCO501CN" instead.
"Every home should have smoke alarms, and CO alarms are a must in all homes with fuel-burning appliances such as a furnace, water heater, range, cooktop or grill. Even an all-electric home may benefit from a couple of CO alarms" -Consumer Reports http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/co-and-smoke-alarms/buying-guide.htm
I was originally going to order a $20 unit that was ranked highly on Amazon: "The First Alert CO600", but then I checked with Consumer Reports and found that there is a big difference in CO detectors... The quality of detection increased drammatically at around $50, so I'm probably going to puchase: " First Alert OneLInk SCO501CN" instead.
"Every home should have smoke alarms, and CO alarms are a must in all homes with fuel-burning appliances such as a furnace, water heater, range, cooktop or grill. Even an all-electric home may benefit from a couple of CO alarms" -Consumer Reports http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/co-and-smoke-alarms/buying-guide.htm
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)